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Doors

Custom-size entry doors, built where doors fail

A door rarely fails in the middle. It fails at the bottom of the jamb, at the sill and at the lock. Build those right and size the door to the house.

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Older houses do not take stock doors. The openings are 30 inches, 42 inches, or something in between, and taller than a store carries. We build fiberglass entry doors to the width and height of the opening. While we are at it, we build them where doors usually fail.

Any width, any height

We carry 30, 32, 36 and 42 inch doors, and we can build anything in between. If a door has to be cut down in height or width for an old house, we do that too.

A lot of people come in after going around and around and being told it cannot be built. Throw that out. Tell us what you want, and a lot of times we can build that door to fit the opening.

The jamb rots from the bottom up

One of the most common problems with doors is the jamb rotting out from the bottom. Water sits there, and wood drinks it.

We use composite jambs and composite brick mold, so that does not happen. On the stained doors the sill underneath is aluminum and composite too. There is nothing at the bottom that can rot.

Adjusting sills stop adjusting

A lot of doors have a fixed sill, or an adjusting sill where you turn a screw to set the door. Set that door on a brick stool or on concrete and water wicks up through the bottom of the sill. The screws freeze, and they are not adjustable anymore.

We have gone to self-adjusting sills. They are spring-loaded and they adjust themselves.

Steel rusts, then it dents

We have pretty much moved away from steel doors. Steel rusts, and then it dents. Fiberglass does neither.

Some fiberglass doors still have wood edges around them. Wood swells and the door sticks. Ours have composite edges on the top, the sides and the bottom, so there is no wood in the door at all.

The lock side is mostly foam

Most doors have a lock block about 10 inches long where the deadbolt and the lock go. The rest of that edge is foam.

We run an LVL straight up the lock side, which makes the door stronger. On a single door we put a steel plate behind the jamb, so the deadbolt throws into steel. That is the part somebody leans on when they want in.

If you want it to look like wood

Plenty of people want a wood door without the wood problems. A lot of stainable fiberglass doors come out looking painted. So we take a textured fiberglass door and streak a gel stain into it so it reads as wood. Once the customer approves the look, we clear-seal it.

Bruce, our door technician, matches stain to whatever people bring in. Sometimes it is a photo, sometimes a drawer front off a piece of furniture. The stain sits on the surface instead of soaking in, so he layers it, lets it dry and darkens it coat by coat.

Be realistic about one thing. It is not a piece of wood. We will make it look like one, and most people say wow when they see it.

Measure the opening, or send us a photo of it, and tell us what you want the door to look like. We will tell you what we can build.

Watch it from the shop floor.

Sources

This piece is our own experience, from the shop and the job site. It cites no outside figure, so there is nothing here to source to anybody else.

    D.W. Ross Company — Building envelopes that have to hold a temperature, from Cleveland, since 1921. These notes come out of our own projects.

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